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Introduction to Gosford, NSW


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To get anywhere on the Central Coast, you need to go through GOSFORD, perched on the north shore of Brisbane Water and just about within commuting distance of Sydney. Its proximity to the city has resulted in uncontrolled residential sprawl along much of the Central Coast, which has put a great strain on the once-unspoilt lakes. Although there's plenty of accommodation in and around Gosford – details from Central Coast Tourism, near the train station at 200 Mann St (Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat 10am–12.30pm; tel 02/4385 4074, www.cctourism.com.au) – there's not much incentive to stay.

Brisbane Waters National Park, immediately south of Gosford, is the site of the Bulgandry Aboriginal engravings, which are of a style unique to the Sydney region, with figurative outlines scratched boldly into sandstone. The site, no longer frequented by the Guringgai people – whose territory ranged south as far as Sydney Harbour and north to Lake Macquarie – is 7km southwest of Gosford off the Woy Woy road. Tiny Bouddi National Park is 20km southeast along the coast, at the northern mouth of Broken Bay, and is a great spot for bushwalking, with camping facilities at Putty Beach, Little Beach and Tallow Beach: book through the NPWS office at 207 Albury St, Gosford (tel 02/4324 4911), which also has information on both parks. You can visit the rock-art sites with Coastal Eco-Tours (tel 02/4344 3392, www.coastalecotours.com.au), who offer excellent small-group, expert-led bushwalking tours in both national parks focusing on bush medicine, bushtucker and bush skills ($110 includes picnic lunch and Woy Woy station pick-ups).

Surrounded by Brisbane Waters National Park, friendly, undeveloped PEARL BEACH, just over a 25-kilometre drive from Gosford via Woy Woy and Umina, is a small community which expands on weekends. There are holiday houses to rent, but no other accommodation. Besides the popular Sit 'n' Chats Beach Cafe (live jazz Sun noon–4pm) and a restaurant, Pearls on the Beach (licensed and BYO; bookings tel 02/4342 4400; closed Mon–Wed, no dinner Sun), there's a general store (daily 8am–6pm) also selling petrol, a real estate agent who can arrange holiday lets (tel 02/4341 7555, www.pearlbeachrealestate.com.au; from $700 per week in peak season), and some tennis courts. The very pretty, sheltered beach, popular with families, has a relaxing open-access saltwater pool at one end. You can walk from the end of Crystal Avenue to the neighbouring beach settlement of PATONGA visiting a lookout and the Crommelin Native Arboretum en route. The 45-minute walk is best undertaken on the last Sunday of the month when the Patonga Beach market is held (8am–4pm); by road from Pearl Beach, it's 2km southwest. Ocean Planet, 25 Broken Bay Rd, Ettalong Beach (tel 02/4342 2222, www.oceanplanet.com.au; kayak rental from $30 half-day), does kayaking trips on Patonga Creek (8km; 7hr; $92.50) with pick-ups from Woy Woy station.

To get to Pearl Beach or Patonga, take the Busways bus (tel 02/4392 6666) from Woy Woy station or the ferry to Patonga from Palm Beach or Brooklyn.

Information by Rough Guides

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