Introduction to Konya, Turkey

Roughly midway between Antalya and Nevşehir, KONYA is a place of pilgrimage for the Muslim world – the home of Celalledin Rumi or the Mevlâna ("Our Master"), the mystic who founded the Mevlevî or Whirling Dervish sect, and the centre of Sufic mystical practice and teaching. It was also a capital during the Selçuk era, many of the buildings from which are still standing, along with examples of their highly distinctive crafts and applied arts, now on display in Konya's museums. The Mevlâna Müzesi (Mon 10am–5pm, Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; $2.50) is housed in the first lodge (tekke) of the Mevlevî dervish sect, at the eastern end of Mevlâna Bulvarı, easily recognizable by its distinctive fluted turquoise dome. The main building of the museum holds the mausoleum containing the tombs of the Mevlâna, his father and other notables – as with mosques, shoes must be left at the door, women must cover their heads, and whether you're male or female, if you're wearing shorts you'll be given a skirt-like affair to cover your legs. You can take photographs of the mausoleum, but remember to be respectful; it is an extremely holy site. The original semahane (ceremonial hall) exhibits some of the musical instruments of the first dervishes, the original illuminated poetical work of the Mevlâna, and a 500-year-old silk carpet from Selçuk Persia that is supposedly the finest ever woven. In the adjoining room, a casket containing hairs from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad is displayed alongside illuminated medieval Korans. A separate building houses an exhibition of dervish memorabilia and some bizarre waxwork figures.

Konya's bus station is 10km out of town, from where the Konak dolmuş and tramway connects with the town centre; the train station is 2km out of the centre at the far end of İstasyon Caddesi, connected to the centre by regular dolmuşes. The tourist office is at Mevlâna Cad 21 (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; tel 0332/351 1074). Konya's better hotels are on or just north of Mevlâna Caddesi; outside the annual Mevlâna festival (Dec) rates can usually be bargained down. Otel Bey, Ayanbey Sok 25 (tel 0332/352 0173; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]) is the best of the budget options; for a little less, Otel Tur, Esarizade Sok 13 (tel 0332/351 9825; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), is quiet, comfortable and friendly. Similarly priced is the Otel Çesme, Akifpaşa Sok 21, off İstanbul Cad (tel 0322/351 2426; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), where some of the slightly stuffy rooms have baths. If you have a little more to spend the YeniKöşk, Kadılar Sok 28 (tel 0332/352 0671; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), is a cut above the rest. As for eating, the Şifa Lokantası, Mevlâna Cad 29, is reasonably priced, and nearby Sema offers tasty soups and kebabs. TilsumRestaurant, west of the centre on Meram Cad, also serves excellent kebabs. For good views over the museum and a range of reasonably priced Turkish dishes try Gulbahçesi, whilst the Köşk next to the Mevlâna museum, serves local Konya kebab specialities and has live music. Express Internet, Alâeddin Bulvarı 21, is one of a number of Internet places southwest of Alâeddin Tepesi.

Information by Rough Guides

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