Introduction to Marmaris, Turkey

MARMARIS rivals Kuşadası as the largest and most developed Aegean resort. Its huge marina and proximity to Dalaman airport mean that tourists pour in more or less non-stop during the warmer months. According to legend, the place was named when Süleyman the Magnificent, not finding the castle here to his liking, was heard to mutter Mimarı as ("Hang the architect") – a command which should perhaps still apply to the designers of the seemingly endless high-rises. Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvarı cuts Marmaris in half, and the maze of narrow streets east of it is home to most things of interest, though little is left of the sleepy fishing village that Marmaris was a mere two decades ago. Only the Kaleiçi district, the warren of streets at the base of the tiny castle, offers a pleasant wander, and the castle museum (Tues–Sun 8am–noon & 1–5.30pm; $1) has a worthwhile archeology and ethnography collection.

From the bus station, 1.5km south of the centre, pick up a dolmuş to take you into town. Many of the bus companies also offer a free transfer minibus to the centre. The ferry dock abuts İskele Meydanı, on one side of which stands the helpful tourist office (Mon–Fri 8.30am–noon & 1–5/7pm; summer also Sat & Sun). Ferries to Rhodes ($40 one-way, $57 open return) run daily in high season, weekly in winter. Agents include Yeşil Marmaris, Barbaros Cad 13 (tel 0252/412 2290), and Engin Turizm, 3rd floor, G. Mustafa Cad 16 (tel 0252/412 6944). Package tourism ensures that hotels here are expensive, and welcoming pansiyons few and far between, but the tourist office is tuned in to the needs of backpackers and can help out. The cheapest option is the Interyouth Hostel at Tepe Mahallesi 42, Sok 45, in the bazaar close to the Atatürk statue (tel 0252/412 3687, interyouth@turk.net; dorms $5, rooms up to £10/$16), with a lively rooftop café, Internet access and a competitively priced travel service. Behind the huge Tansaş shopping centre is the Nadir (tel 0252/412 1167; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]) which has en-suite rooms with air-conditioning. Another good budget pension is the Yeşim, west of the centre towards Uzunyalı beach at Atatürk Cad 60, Sok 3 (tel 0252/412 3001; up to £10/$16). More upmarket is the great-value Marina motel (tel 0252/412 6598; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), which has clean en-suite rooms and a breakfast terrace. The fabulous Kırçiçeği on Kübilay Alpagün Cad behind the bazaar offers excellent traditional Turkish food at reasonable prices. In the bazaar area, Marmaris and Liman are both acceptable and frequented by the locals. To the west, Uzunyali harbours various pizza joints and a reasonable Turkish restaurant, Turhan, at Uzunyali 26. For drinking, Panorama, up on the castle hill, offers great views, and the nearby Hacı Mustafa Sokaği contains a wealth of other drinking venues, such as Davy Jones' Locker and Casablanca.

Information by Rough Guides

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