Introduction to Bodrum, Turkey

In the eyes of its devotees, BODRUM – ancient Halicarnassos – with its whitewashed houses and subtropical gardens, is the most attractive Turkish resort, a quality outfit in comparison to its upstart Aegean rivals. And it is a pleasant town in most senses, despite having no real beach, although development has proceeded apace over the last couple of decades. The centrepiece is the Castle of St Peter (Tues–Sun 9am–noon & 1–5pm; $7), built by the Knights of St John over a Selçuk fortress between 1437 and 1522. Inside, the various towers house a Museum of Underwater Archeology, which includes coin and jewellery rooms, classical and Hellenistic statuary, and Byzantine relics retrieved from two wrecks, alongside a diorama explaining salvage techniques. The Carian princess hall ($2.50 extra) displays the skeleton and sarcophagus of a fourth-century BC noblewoman unearthed in 1989. There is also the Glass Wreck Hall ($2.50 extra) containing the wreck and cargo of an ancient Byzantine ship, which sank near Marmaris. Immediately north of the castle lies the bazaar, from where you can stroll up Türkkuyusu Caddesi and turn left to the town's other main sight, the Mausoleum (daily 8am–5pm; $2). This is the burial place of Mausolus, who ruled Halicarnassos in the fourth century BC, greatly increasing its power and wealth. His tomb (from which we derive the word "mausoleum") was regarded as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, but the bulk of it is now in London's British Museum. The town's ancient amphitheatre, just above the main highway to the north, was begun by Mausolus and was modified in the Roman era; it's used during the annual September festival.

Ferries dock at the jetty west of the castle, close to the tourist office on İskele Meydanı (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm; summer also Sat & Sun). The bus station is 500m up Cevat Şakir Caddesi, which divides the town roughly in two. Bodrum Ferryboat Association (tel 0252/316 0882) handles ferries to Kos ($20 one-way, $25 day return, $30 open return), as well as domestic services to Datça, while Bodrum Express Lines (tel 0252/316 1087) handles hydrofoils to Kos ($30 one-way, $35 day return, $40 open return), Rhodes ($50 one-way, $60 day return, $70 open return) and domestic services to Marmaris. There's a port tax ($10), payable on arrival in Greece if you're not returning the same day. Some of the best accommodation is southeast of the bus station in Kumbahçe. Emiko Pansiyon, Atatürk Cad, Uslu Sok 11 (tel 0252/316 5560, emiko@turk.net; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), has a pleasant courtyard and quiet rooms. Durak, Rasthane Sok 8 (tel 0252/316 1564; up to £10/$16), has some with balconies, as does the friendly Uğur, across the road at no. 13 (tel 0252/316 2106; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]). West of the bus station, Melis, Türkkuyusu Cad 50 (tel 0252/316 0560; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), has en-suite rooms and attractive courtyards. The nearby Dönen (tel 0252/316 4017; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]) is a quiet family-run operation with a garden. Dolmuşes from the bus station head to nearby Akyarlar, which offers the best sandy beach around, some quiet pansiyons and restaurants, and a campsite.

You don't come to Bodrum to save money, and eating out is no exception. Best of the budget places is ZetaşOcakbaşı on Atatürk Cad, which offers good pide and meat dishes. Gemibaşi, opposite the yacht harbour, on the corner of Firkayten Sok and Neyzen Tevfik, is good for a no-nonsense meat meal and also serves fish. The Karadeniz cake shop on Dr Alim Bey Cad does wonderful fruit and cream cakes. The same street boasts many of the town's fast-changing bars – current hot-spots include Robin Hood and the White House. Halikarnas at the east end of Cumhuriyet Cad is the most famous club on the Aegean, while the M&M Marine Club is reputedly the biggest floating disco in the world; it sets sail at 2am when the onshore establishments close. Internet access is at Hakim's Internet on Atatürk Cad.

Information by Rough Guides

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