Introduction to Selcuk, Turkey Selçuk

SELÇUK has been catapulted into the limelight of premier-league tourism by its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus. The flavour of tourism here, though, is different from that at nearby Kuşadası, its location and ecclesiastical connections making it a haven for a disparate mix of backpackers and Bible-bashers from every corner of the globe. The beaches in and around Kuşadası are easily accessible on a short dolmuş ride. Ayasoluk hill (daily 8.30am–6pm; $2.50), the traditional burial place of St John the Evangelist, who died here around 100 AD, boasts the remains of a basilica built by Justinian that was one of the largest Byzantine churches in existence; various colonnades and walls have been re-erected, giving a hint of the building's magnificence. The tomb of the evangelist is marked by a slab at the former site of the altar; beside the nave is the baptistry, where religious tourists pose in the act of dunking as friends' cameras click. Just behind the tourist office, the Archeological Museum (Tues–Sun 8.30am–6pm; $2.50) has galleries of finds from Ephesus, while beyond the museum, 600m along the road toward Ephesus, are the scanty remains of the Artemision or sanctuary of Artemis. This massive Hellenistic structure was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, though this is hard to believe today. Some 8km southwest of Selçuk lies Meryemana (daily dawn–dusk; $3), a tiny Greek chapel (Mass, summer daily 7.15am, Sun also 10.30am) where some Orthodox theologians believe the Virgin Mary passed her last years, having travelled to the region with St John the Evangelist. Evidence of Mary's residence is somewhat circumstantial but that doesn't stop coach tours to Ephesus making the detour.

At the base of the castle hill in town, a pedestrian precinct leads east to the train station. Following the main highway a bit further south brings you to the bus and dolmuş terminal, opposite which is the tourist office (Mon–Fri 8.30am–noon & 1–5pm; summer also Sat & Sun; tel 0232/892 6945). Most pensions and hotels will pick you up from the bus station if you call on arrival, and many arrange free lifts to Ephesus and other local sights. Pension Karahan, 11 Ataturk Mah, Siegburg Cad (tel 0232/892 2575, pensionkarahan@hotmail.com; up to £10/$16) is a delightfully hospitable place run by a local family, only too willing to help out. Also recommended is Kiwi Pension, Ataturk Mah. 1038 Sok 26 (tel 0232/892 4892, www.kiwipension.com; dorms $5, rooms up to £10/$16), which runs free trips to their swimming pool 3km away. The large Artemis Guest House ("Jimmy's Place"), 1012 Sok 2 (tel 0232/892 1982, www.artemisguesthouse.com; dorms $4, room £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), has Internet access, a travel library and a cosy restaurant (serving some veggie food) with patio. Otel Ürkmez, Namık Kemal Cad 20 (tel 0232/892 6312, www.urkmez.8m.com; up to £10/$16), near the hamam, has a roof terrace, while more upmarket is the beautifully furnished, female-run Nilya, Atatürk Mah, 1051 Sok 7 (tel 0232/892 9081, nilya_ephesus@hotmail.com; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]), which has splendid views over the Artemision. Selçuk's campsite, Garden, lies just beyond the İsa Bey mosque; alternatively, Mavi Ay, 9km west at Pamucak Beach, is served by Selçuk–Kuşadası dolmuşes. Kalenin Prensi, Kale Alti, is a restaurant owned by the family of Sagturk, the famous Turkish ballet dancer, offering ancient Roman and Turkish dishes. KöşkPide on Zigberg Cad, and Ephesus on Namik Kemal Cad, are worth a try, as is the licensed Old House restaurant on Cengiz Topel Cad. Enjoy apple tea in the beautiful garden of Karamese café, Tarihi İsa Bey Camii Onu, opposite the mosque. Internet facilities are at Nutuk Internet Café, Ataturk Mah, 1040 Sok 6. The hamam (men Sat–Thurs 7am–11pm, women Fri noon–5pm; full treatment $10, plus small tip for masseur), next to the main police station, offers a cheap introduction to a good Turkish scrub and massage.

To stay outside Selçuk in the countryside, take one of the hourly minibuses to ŞIRINCE, a 600-year-old Greek stone village whose wine-making tradition, against the odds, has been continued by Muslim Turks who settled here in the 1920s. You can sleep overnight in one of the beautifully restored village houses which make up Şirince Evler (tel 0232/898 3209; £40–50/$64–80 [€58–72]).

Information by Rough Guides

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