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TAVIRA is a good-looking little town with superb island beaches within easy reach, and despite ever-increasing visitors it continues to make its living as a tuna-fishing port. Buses pull up at the terminal by the river, a two-minute walk from the central square, Praça da República; the train station is 1km from the centre of town, straight up the Rua da Liberdade. From July to mid-September, boats to the beach on Ilha de Tavira depart from the quayside at the town side of the flyover (daily 8am–7.30pm; €1 return). In addition, year-round boats cross from Quatro Águas (every 15min–1hr; €1 return), 2km east of town. The beach is backed by dunes and stretches west almost as far as Fuzeta, 14km away. Despite increasing development – a small chalet settlement, a campsite (tel 281 324 455; closed Nov–March) a minute from the sands, watersports, beach umbrellas and half a dozen bar/restaurants facing the sea – it's an enjoyable spot in which to hang out. The best accommodation in Tavira is the Residencial Lagoas Bica, north of the river at Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis 24 (tel 281 322 252; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), with the bonus of the budget eatery, Bica, below. Alternatives include the smart Pensão do Castelo (tel 281 320 790; £40–50/$64–80 [€58–72]) at Rua da Liberdade 22, the Residencial Mirante at Rua da Liberdade 83 (tel 281 322 255; £30–40/$48–64 (€44–58), with breakfast) just up the main road (though it can be a bit noisy), and the lovely ResidencialPrincesa do Gilão, across the river on the quayside (tel 281 325 171; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]), whose front rooms have balconies overlooking the river. The tourist office just off the main Praça da República (Mon–Fri 9.30am–1pm & 2–5/6pm; tel 281 322 511) might also be able to find you a private room. There's Internet access at Café Bela Fria, Rua das Polanos 1, opposite the bus station. Bars and restaurants line the gardens along the bank of the River Gilão, which flows through the centre of town. Best choice is the Imperial, which serves seafood at fairly reasonable prices, though also good are Anazu, Rua Jacques Pessoa 13, a riverfront café, and Beira Rio, at Rua Borda da Àgua de Assêca 44–46, a riverside bar/restaurant with tree-shaded tables serving pizza, pasta and salads. The Arco, at Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis 67, is a laid-back, gay-friendly bar. Tavira's only club, UBI (closed Mon), is reached by following Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis to the outskirts of town; it's the huge metallic warehouse on the right. Two daily buses (around 9am & 5pm) run from VILA REAL, the eastern terminus of the rail line from Faro and Tavira, to Ayamonte in Spain, continuing to Huelva for easy connections on to Seville. The same timetable operates in reverse. Spain is one hour ahead of Portugal. Information by Rough Guides |
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