Introduction to Lagos, Portugal

LAGOS is a thriving fishing port and market centre as well as being one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Algarve, with some superb beaches within walking distance. It was a favoured residence of Henry the Navigator, who used Lagos as a base for the African trade. Europe's first slave market was built here in 1441 in the arches of the Customs House, which still stands in the Praça da República near the waterfront. On the waterfront and to the rear of the town are the remains of Lagos's once impregnable fortifications, devastated by the Great Earthquake. One rare and beautiful church which did survive was the Igreja de Santo António; decorated around 1715, its gilt and carved interior is wildly obsessive, every inch filled with a private fantasy of cherubic youths struggling with animals and fish. The church forms part of a visit to the adjacent Museu Municipal (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm; €2), housing an extraordinarily eclectic collection of artefacts including Roman busts and deformed animal foetuses. To the east of Lagos is a splendid sweep of sand – Meia Praia – where there's space even at the height of summer. The promontory south is fringed by extravagantly eroded cliff faces, which shelter a series of tiny cove beaches. Praia de Dona Ana is considered the most picturesque, though its crowds make the smaller coves of Praia do Pinhão, down a track just opposite the fire station, and Praia Camilo, a little further along, more appealing.

The train station is across the river, fifteen minutes' walk from the centre via a swing bridge in the marina; the bus station is a bit closer in, a block back from the main Avenida dos Descobrimentos. The tourist office is in the central Largo M. Pombal (July & Aug daily 10am–10pm, Sept-June Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–2pm; tel 282 764 111) and can help find a room for you, but most economical are the private rooms (£20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]) touted at the bus station. Two of the more convenient and pleasant pensions are Pensão Caravela, Rua 25 de Abril 16 (tel 282 763 361; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), and Residencial Marazul, at no. 13 (tel 282 769 143; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]). There's a hostel at Rua de Lançarote de Freites 50 (tel 282 761 970; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), which also has Internet access. Lagos's campsite, Campismo da Trindade (tel 282 763 893), is on the way to Praia de Dona Ana but gets very crowded. In season a regular bus service marked "D. Ana/Oporto de Mós" connects it to town; on foot, follow the main road beyond the fort. Some of the better restaurants are the fish and shellfish places by the market, where Rua das Portas de Portugal meets Avenida dos Descobrimentos. On the latter, the popular Casa do Zé is open 24 hours a day. For authentic piri-piri chicken try the inexpensive O Franguinho at Rua Luís de Azevedo 25 (closed Mon). Casa Rosa, Rua do Ferrador 22 (closed Mon), serves substantial €3.50 set meals and is a backpackers' favourite. Mullens bar, Rua Cândido dos Reis 86, serves meals until 10pm, plays jazz, salsa and soul on the sound system and stays open until 2am. Hideaway, Travessa 1º de Maio 9, just off Praça Luís Camões, is a cosily atmospheric bar, also open till 2am. For contemporary club sounds, there's Bon Vivant, Rua 25 de Abril 105, with its "tropical" roof terrace (till 4am).

Information by Rough Guides

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