Introduction to Coimbra, Portugal

COIMBRA was Portugal's capital from 1143 to 1255 and it ranks behind only the cities of Lisbon and Porto in historic importance. Its university, founded in 1290 and finally established here in 1537 after a series of moves back and forth to Lisbon, was the only one existing in Portugal until the beginning of the last century. For a provincial town it has remarkable riches, and it's an enjoyable place to be – lively when the students are in town, sleepy during the holidays. The best time of all to be here is in May, when the students celebrate the end of the academic year in the Queima das Fitas, tearing or burning their gowns and faculty ribbons. This is when you're most likely to hear the Coimbra fado, distinguished from the Lisbon version by its mournful pace and complex lyrics.

Old Coimbra sits on a hill on the right bank of the River Mondego, with the university crowding its summit. The main buildings of the Old University, dating from the sixteenth century, are set around a courtyard dominated by a Baroque clocktower and a statue of João III. The chapel (€1.50) is covered with azulejos and intricate decoration, but takes second place to the Library (daily 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.30/7.30pm; €2.50; tickets from the office under the clock tower), a Baroque fantasy presented to the faculty by João V in the early eighteenth century. Below the university, a good first stop is the Museu Machado de Castro (Tues–Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5.15pm; €3), just down from the unprepossessing Sé Nova (New Cathedral). Named after an eighteenth-century sculptor, the museum is housed in the former archbishop's palace and is positively stuffed with sculpture, paintings, furniture and ceramics. The Sé Velha (Old Cathedral; Mon–Thurs & Sat 10am–5pm, Fri 10am–2pm), halfway down the hill, is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Portugal. Solid and square on the outside, it's also stolid and simple within, the decoration confined to a few giant conch shells and some unobtrusive azulejos. Restraint and simplicity certainly aren't the chief qualities of the Igreja de Santa Cruz (Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–5.45pm, Sun 4–6pm; €1 for cloister), at the bottom of the hill past the city gates. Although it was founded before the Old Cathedral, nothing remains that has not been substantially remodelled. In the early sixteenth century, Coimbra was the site of a major sculptural school; the new tombs for Portugal's first kings, Afonso Henriques and Sancho I, and the elaborately carved pulpit, are among its very finest works. The Manueline theme is at its clearest in the airy arches of the Cloister of Silence, its walls decorated with bas-relief scenes from the life of Christ.

Most mainline trains stop at Coimbra B, 3km north of the city, from where there are frequent connecting services to Coimbra A, right at the heart of things. The main bus station is on Avenida Fernão de Magalhães, fifteen minutes' walk from the centre – turn right out of the bus station and head down the main road. The tourist office (Mon–Fri 9am–5/7pm, Sat & Sun 9/10am–1pm & 2–5/5.30pm; tel 239 488 120, www.turismo-centro.pt) is opposite the bridge in the Largo da Portagem. Near the station, the sleazy Rua da Sota and its side streets have a few pensões that aren't as bad as they look – try the Pensão Vitória at Rua da Sota 9 & 19 (tel 239 824 049; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), or the Residencial Domus at Rua Adelino Veiga 62 (tel 239 828 584; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]). Alternatively, there are several options east of the university; beneath the aqueduct, Antunes, Rua Castro Matoso 8 (tel 239 854 720; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]) offers good service. The hostel, above the park at Rua Henrique Seco 14 (tel 239 822 955; £10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), is friendly and immaculately run – it's a twenty-minute walk from Coimbra A, or take bus #7, #29 or #46. For really basic food, served up with loads of atmosphere, try the little dives tucked into the alleys between Largo da Portagem, Rua da Sota and Praça do Comércio. Adega Paço do Conde on Rua Paço do Conde is a cavernous, locally renowned churrasqueira. And don't miss one of the traditional coffee houses found along Rua Ferreira Borges – notably Café Santa Cruz – and Rua Visconde da Luz.

Information by Rough Guides

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