Introduction to Groningen, Netherlands

The northern city of GRONINGEN comes as something of a surprise in the midst of quiet, rural surroundings. Hip, streetwise fashions, a cosmopolitan feel and thriving student life imbue the city with vigour. Competitively priced restaurants dish up exotic curries and fresh falafel alongside the standard Dutch staples, and the arts scene is vibrant, particularly during the academic year. Virtually destroyed in 1945, Groningen is now a jumble of arts and architectures: from traditional canalside townhouses to colourful Art-Deco tilework parading along the upper facades of the shopping streets. This eclecticism culminates in the innovative Groninger Museum (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, July & Aug also Mon 1pm–5pm; €6; www.groninger-museum.nl), resplendent in acid-greens and golds on its own little island across from the train station; its controversial design encases a superb collection of contemporary art, set off by numerous and varied exhibitions. The west pavilion is given over to travelling exhibitions but also houses the permanent art collection, including Rubens, Hague school paintings, and a number of late works by the Expressionists.

Groningen's bus and train stations are on the south side of town, fifteen minutes' walk from the VVV at Grote Markt 25 (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 10am–5pm; tel 0900/202 3050, www.groningen.nl); they'll give you a short list of private rooms, though few are near the city centre. Otherwise, the cheapest accommodation is in the dorms of Simplon Jongerenhotel, north of the centre at Boterdiep 73 (tel 050/313 5221; €11.60). Reasonably priced hotels include GarniFriesland, Kleine Pelsterstraat 4 (tel 050/312 1307; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]), just south of the Grote Markt. Bus #2 from Grote Markt runs via Peizerweg on a ten-minute ride to the campsite Stadspark (tel 050/525 1624; closed mid-Oct to mid-March). For Groningen's cheapest food, head for Maoz Falafel, Gedempte Zuiderdiep 23. Best of the rest are concentrated around Poelestraat: Café d'Opera at no. 17 has good Dutch food; 't Pakhuis, Peperstraat 8, has Dutch snacks and a lively bar in an atmospheric building, while to the west at A-Kerkstraat 24 is high-quality, moderately priced fish and vegetarian food in Brussels Lof. On the south side of Grote Markt is a flank of outdoor cafés, best of which are the old-style brown café De Witz, no. 47, and Hooghoudt, no. 42, which serves food until 4am at weekends. Thanks to its large student population, Groningen has good nightlife. For live music try Vera, in the basement at Oosterstraat 44; or Troubadour, Peperstraat 19. De Spieghel, Peperstraat 11, has live jazz most nights, while Palace, Gelkingestraat 1, is a lively club which occasionally hosts live bands.

Information by Rough Guides

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