Introduction to Delft, Netherlands

DELFT, 2km inland from Den Haag, has considerable charm, with its gabled red-roofed houses standing beside tree-lined canals. The pastel colours of the pavements, brickwork and bridges give the town a faded tranquillity – though one that can suffer beneath the tourist onslaught during summer. A good starting point is to follow the Historic Walk around the old town with a map from the VVV. The town is perhaps best known for Delftware, the delicate blue and white ceramics to which the town gave its name in the seventeenth century. Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles, a factory producing Delftware at Rotterdamsweg 196, is open for visits (daily 9am–5pm; Oct–April closed Sun; €2.50; www.royaldelft.com), and the Huis Lambert van Meerten Museum, Oude Delft 199 (Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €3.50), has a large collection of Delft and other tiles. Markt is also a useful place to start exploring, with the Nieuwe Kerk (Mon–Fri 9/11am–4/6pm, Sat 9/11–5/6pm; €2.50) at one end and the Renaissance Stadhuis opposite. William the Silent – leader of the struggle for Dutch independence in the seventeenth century – is buried in this fine old church and you can climb the 370 steps of the tower for spectacular views. West of here, Wynhaven, an old canal, leads to Hippolytusbuurt and the Gothic Oude Kerk (same hours and price as Nieuwe Kerk), perhaps the town's finest building, with an unhealthily leaning tower. The nearby Prinsenhof, William the Silent's base for his revolt against the Spanish and also where he was assassinated, has a decent collection of early Dutch art.

From Delft's train station, aim for the big steeple you see on exit and it's a ten-minute walk north to the Markt. Delft's VVV is currently closed, but when it reopens it will almost certainly be on the Markt. The town has some delightful family B&Bs: warmly recommended is friendly and welcoming Oosteinde, at Oosteinde 156 (tel 015/213 4238; £40–50/$64–80 [€58–72]), with lovely rooms. At the cheaper end, try Hotel Restaurant Radethuys, Markt 38-40 (tel 015/212 5115; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]). The campsite, Delftse Hout, is at Kortftlaan 5 (tel 015/213 0040; bus #64 from station). The least expensive eating is at a number of student mensas (term-time only) such as De Koornbeurs near the main square and Jansbrug, Kornmarkt 50–52; Ladera on Oosteinde also has good-value food. Kobus Koch is a gem of a café/restaurant on the Beestenmarkt; sampling the tasty appeltart met slagroom (apple cake with cream) is a must. Willem Van Oranje, centrally located on Markt, has pancakes, uitsmijters (ham or cheese with eggs), light meals for around €4.50 and three-course menus for €9. Locus Publicus, Brabantse Turfmarkt 67, is a popular local bar, serving a staggering array of beers as well as sandwiches. Further nightlife is provided by the nearby club Speakers, which often features live music, and a jazz bar, The Piano Bar.

Information by Rough Guides

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