Introduction to Leiden, Netherlands

The charm of LEIDEN lies in the peace and prettiness of its gabled streets and canals, though the town's museums are varied and comprehensive enough to merit a visit in themselves. Its most appealing quarter is Rapenburg, a peaceful area of narrow pedestrian streets and canals that is home to the city's best-known attraction at no. 28, the Rijksmuseum Van Oudheden (National Museum of Antiquities; Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun noon–5pm; €6), the country's principal archeological museum. Outside sits the first-century AD Temple of Teffeh while inside are more Egyptian artefacts, along with classical Greek and Roman sculpture and exhibits from prehistoric, Roman and medieval times. Across Rapenburg, a network of narrow streets converges on the Gothic Pieterskerk (daily 1.30–4pm; free). East of here, Breestraat marks the site of a vigorous market (Wed & Sat), which sprawls right over the sequence of bridges into Haarlemmerstraat, the town's major shopping street. Close by, the Burcht (daily 10am–10pm; free) is a shell of a fort, whose battlements you can clamber up for the views. Leiden's municipal museum, Lakenhal, Oude Singel 28–32 (Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun noon–5pm; €4), has mixed rooms of furniture, tiles, glass and ceramics and a collection of paintings by Rembrandt and others. Around the corner on Molenwerf, the Molenmuseum de Valk, 2e Binnenvestgracht 1 (Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; €2.50), displays the history of windmills.

Leiden's train and bus stations are no more than ten minutes' walk from the centre. The VVV, a short walk from the stations at Stationsweg 2d (Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 11am–3pm; tel 0900/222 2333, www.leiden.nl), can book private rooms. Central accommodation includes The Rose, Beestenmarkt 14 (tel 071/514 6630; £50–60/$80–96 [€72–87]); much more appealing is Nieuw Minerva, a cosy and central canalside hotel at Boommarkt 23 (tel 071/512 6358, www.nieuwminerva.nl; £70–80/$112–128 [€102–116]). The closest campsite is Koningshof (tel 071/402 6051), 6km north of Leiden (bus #40). For eating, M'n Broer, by the Pieterskerk at Kloksteeg 7, has a reasonable Dutch menu, while Barrera, on Rapenburg, has good sandwiches. In the evening, the studenty La Bota, Herensteeg 11, by the Pieterskerk, has great-value food and beers, while Jazzcafé The Duke on the corner of Oude Singel and Nieuwe Beestenmarkt has a busy bar and live jazz most nights.

Information by Rough Guides

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