Introduction to Haarlem, Netherlands

Just over fifteen minutes from Amsterdam by train, HAARLEM is a handsome, mid-sized city that sees itself as a cut above its neighbours. It makes a good alternative base for exploring North Holland, or even Amsterdam itself. The core of the city is Grote Markt and the adjoining Riviervischmarkt, flanked by the gabled, originally fourteenth-century Stadhuis and the impressive bulk of the Grote Kerk or Sint Bavokerk (Mon–Sat 10am–3.30/4pm; €2). Inside, the mighty Christian Müller organ of 1738 is said to have been played by Handel and Mozart. The town's main attraction is the outstanding Frans Hals Museum, Groot Heiligland 62 (Tues–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; €5.40; www.franshalsmuseum.nl), a five-minute stroll from Grote Markt in the Oudemannhuis almshouse. It houses a number of his lifelike seventeenth-century portraits, including the "Civic Guard" series which established his reputation.

Haarlem train station, connected to Amsterdam and to Leiden by four trains an hour, is on the north side of the city, about ten minutes' walk from the Grote Markt; buses stop right outside. The VVV, attached to the station (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9.30am–3.30pm; tel 0900/616 1600, www.vvvzk.nl), has maps and can book private rooms for a small fee. Haarlem has a few reasonably priced and central hotels, including Amadeus, Grote Markt 10 (tel 023/532 4530; £50–60/$80–96 [€72–87]), and Carillon, Grote Markt 27 (tel 023/531 0591, www.hotelcarillon.com; £40–50/$64–80 [€58–72]), both in the central square. Further out there's a HI hostel at Jan Gijzenpad 3 (tel 023/537 3793, www.stayokay.com; €23.20; 10min on bus #2 from the station), and campsites among the dunes west of town (bus #81 from the station, including Bloemendaal, Zeeweg 72, in Bloemendaal-aan-Zee (tel 023/573 2178; closed Nov–March) and the sprawling De Lakens, Zeeweg 60 (tel 0900/384 6226, www.kennemerduincampings.nl; closed Nov–March). For eating, the eccentric Haarlem aan Zee, Oude Groenmarkt 10 (tel 023/531 4884) serves splendid seafood surrounded by beach decor, while the popular and affordable Restaurant La Plume, Lange Veerstraat 1 (tel 023/531 3202) dishes up pastas and traditional Dutch food. Slightly more upmarket, Applause at Grote Markt 23a (tel 023/531 1425) is a chic Italian bistro with main courses around €20. The long-standingly popular Café 1900, Barteljorisstraat 100, serves drinks and light meals in an attractive setting, while the Grand Café Fortuyn, Grote Markt 21 is quieter, with charming 1930s decor. Ze Crack, at the junction of Lange Veerstraat and Kleine Houtstraat, is a dim, smoky bar with good music and beer by the pint, or for a little traditional character, try the proeflokaal (a spirit-tasting room turned bar) In den Uiver, Riviervischmarkt 13 or the intimate and typically Dutch Proeflokaal Sliterij at Lange Veerstraat 7.

Information by Rough Guides

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