Introduction to Klaipeda, Lithuania Klaipėda

KLAIPĖDA, Lithuania's third largest city and most important port, lies on the Baltic coast, a long and tedious 275km by road or rail northwest of Vilnius. Though it has a handful of sights the city is of more interest as a staging post en route to Neringa, the Lithuanian name for the Couronian Spit which shields much of Lithuania's coast from the open Baltic. Until 1919 a part of Germany known as Memel, Klaipėda is bisected by the River Danė. The main sights are in the Old Town on its southern bank, an area of half-timbered buildings and cobbled streets, at the heart of which is Theatre Square named after the ornate Neoclassical Theatre building on its northern side. In front of the theatre is Anna's Fountain, a replica of a famous prewar monument to the German poet Simon Dach (1605–1659), which depicts the heroine of his folksong Ännchen von Tharau. Southeast of the square, the History Museum of Lithuania Minor, Didžioji vandens 6 (Tues–Sat 10am–5.30pm; 3Lt), has local archeological finds, national costumes and ancient domestic implements. In the New Town, on the northern side of the Danė, at Liepų 16, is Klaipėda's splendid red-brick Gothic-revival post office. Built between 1883 and 1893, it is a vivid reminder of imperial German civic pride.

Klaipėda's tourist office is just off Teatro aikštė at Tomo 2 (July & Aug: Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–2pm; Sept–June: Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; tel 46/412186, kltic@takas.lt). Kaunas and Klaipeda in Your Pocket (8Lt, from the tourist office or bookstores) is your best source of information. Litinterp, Šimkaus 21/4 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm; summer also Sat 10am–3pm; tel 46/310 296, www.litinterp.lt), has central private rooms (£10–20/$16–32 [€15–29]), and they can also help with rooms in Nida. KlaipedaTravellers' Guesthouse, Butkų Juzės 7–4 (tel 46/211 879, oldtown@takas.lt; 35Lt), is a centrally located, friendly hostel. Reasonable mid-range hotels include the Fortųna, Poilsio 64 (tel 46/348 028; £20–30/$32–48 [€29–44]), a small pension 4km south of the centre best booked in advance. Nearer the centre is the family-run pension Prųsija, Šimkaus 6 (tel 46/412 081; £30–40/$48–64 [€44–58]). There's an unofficial free campsite with no facilities at Giruliai, 8km north of Klaipėda next to the Pajųris sanatorium on Slaito (shuttle bus #8 from the centre). Good places to eat in the Old Town are Galerija Peda, Turgaus 10, whose tasty food looks as arty as the gallery it occupies; and BųruUzeiga, Kepėjų 17, which serves up Lithuanian meat-and-potato favourites in homely surroundings. For drinking, Bohema, Aukštoji 3, is a cosy little bar with animated courtyard seating in summer; while Kurpiai, Kurpių 1, is a traditional woody pub that also functions as the best jazz bar in the Baltics.

Information by Rough Guides

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