Introduction to Tropea, Italy

Twelve kilometres southwest along the coast from Briático, TROPEA can claim to be the prettiest town on the whole of the southern Tyrrhenian coast, and (after Maratea) the most fashionable, with a seaside charm missing from many of the other Calabrian resorts, and not yet entirely eroded by the annual influx of tourists. The buildings have character without being twee – see particularly the lovely Norman Cathedral at the bottom of Via Roma, whose interior harbours a couple of unexploded American bombs from the last war (one accompanied by a grateful prayer to the Madonna), a Renaissance ciborium and a statue of the Madonna and Child from the same period. The central apse also has a much-venerated fourteenth-century icon of the Virgin Maria of Romania. The views from the upper town over the sea and the church of Santa Maria dell'Isola on its rock (daily 9.30am–12.30pm, 3–8.30pm) are superb, and on a clear day you will see the cone of Strómboli and sometimes other Aeolian Islands looming on the horizon. If the sun's not out, the museum (summer only daily 9am–1pm & 4pm–midnight;_€1.30) is worth a look, devoted to traditional Calabrian crafts and trades (wood turning, olive oil making and so forth) and featuring dozens of meticulously hand-made mechanical models of Calabrian peasants going about their daily business.

There are good beaches all around Tropea and plenty of accommodation – though in August booking ahead is vital. The bland but comfortable Virgilio in Viale Tondo (tel 0963.61.978; €50–65), requires half- or full-board in high season, as do most of the other hotels – one that doesn't is the Miramare (tel 0963.61.570; €65–80) on Via Libertà, the road heading south out of town, a fairly standard hotel with small rooms. If you're here for a week or more, renting an apartment may be worthwhile; the rooms at Gurnella (tel 0963.61427, www.tropea.biz/appartamenti_gurnella.htm), just outside the centre, are clean and modern and have lovely views over the town and out to sea (€210–730 for a week in a five-bed apartment, depending on the season).

As for eating, Tropea has more trattorias per square metre than any other town in Calabria, often with budget-priced tourist menus. There's a clutch around central Piazza Ércole, some with outside seating. El Sol at Largo Mercato 15 has a large terrace overlooking the valley, as well as a varied menu, and fish fans will appreciate the Osteria del Pescatore, a vaulted cellar around the corner from the cathedral in Via del Monte (closed in winter). For other evening entertainment, Donegan's, the pub attached to the Miramare hotel, serves Guinness on tap as well as panini and other snacks, and hosts occasional live music. The Pro Loco tourist office is in Piazza Ércole (summer daily 9am–1pm & 4.30–9/10pm; winter daily 9am–1pm & 4–8pm; tel 0963.61.475). There's now an official tourist office website for Tropea, www.casadei.it, though the privately-run www.tropea.biz is much more comprehensive, with details of accommodation and lots of background information about the local area.

Further around the promontory, CAPO VATICANO holds some of the area's most popular beaches, including Grotticelle and Tonicello, both spacious enough to allow you to get away from the bustle. Grotticelle has a campsite immediately above it, Quattro Scoglie, where you can rent self-contained apartments for about €22 a head in low season, rising to €35 (tel 0963.663.126; May–Oct). The nearest hotel to this beach, the Grotticelle (tel 0963.663.157; €50–65), lies a few minutes' walk further up the road, but if you have transport you'd do better trying the excellent agriturismo 2km away at the edge of the hamlet of Brivadi, Donna Orsola, where, if you wish, you can even help with the cooking (tel 0963/665111, www.donnaorsola.com; €65–80). To the south of Capo Vaticano, the road teeters high above the sea before reaching NICÓTERA, 11km down, built in its present position by Robert Guiscard. The Castello Ruffo here contains a small archeological museum of finds from the area and a collection of folkloric items (both free), but keeps very irregular hours: you're most likely to find someone to let you in during the mornings. There's also a Cathedral, with work by Antonello Gagini, and far-reaching views south over the Piana, Calabria's second plain of any size, mostly dedicated to olive cultivation. Directly below the town, Nicótera's marina has wide beaches with a couple of summer-only campsites at their southern end.

Information by Rough Guides

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