Introduction to Vieste, Italy

VIESTE juts out into the Adriatic on two promontories, the easternmost point of the Gargano peninsula. Fifty years ago there wasn't even a proper road here, but today Vieste, with its excellent beaches, is the holiday capital of Gargano (and Puglia), and the streets and sands are packed in August. Despite this it has managed to survive as a lively and inviting town, with an interesting historic core and active nightlife that warrant a stop of a day or two – certainly if you're planning to take the ferry from here to the Trémiti Islands.

The old town sits on the easternmost of the two promontories, at the tip of which stands the Chiesa di San Francesco, once a thriving monastery, and a trabucco – a cantilevered arrangement of beams, winches and ropes still used by fishermen to catch mullet. Made of wood, these structures are a feature peculiar to the rocky Gargano coast, probably Phoenician in origin, and the principle at least is straightforward. As mullet swim head to tail, a live mullet is attached to a line and used to entice others to swim over a net suspended below, which is then hoisted up to the platform. Visits can be arranged through the agency Sinergie (tel 0884.706635, sinergie@viesteonline.it).

From the church, climb up Via Mafrolla, walking into the old town to Piazza Seggio. Straight ahead, Via Duomo is site of the so-called Chianca Amara, the "bitter stone", where as many as 5000 local people were beheaded when the Turks sacked the town in 1554. Further down, beyond the stone, the Cattedrale, eleventh century in origin but tampered with in the eighteenth century, is a cool retreat from the fierce glare of the sun in the whitewashed streets; and beyond here the Castello is another of Frederick II's installations – owned by the military now and not open to the public, but giving good views over the beaches and town.

You arrive by bus at Piazza Mazzini, to the west of the town centre; bear right from here along Viale XXIV Maggio, which becomes Corso Lorenzo Fazzini – the main street. At no. 8 is the main tourist office (Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, plus Tues & Thurs 4–7pm; tel 0884.707.495), and there's another at Piazza Kennedy, in the centre of the old town (Mon–Sat: June–Sept 8am–2pm & 4–10pm; Oct–May 8am–2pm & 4–8pm; tel 0884.708.806).

Though there's no shortage of accommodation in Vieste, you will need to book ahead in high season and budget options are hard to come by. First choice is the atmospheric Pensione al Centro Storico, Via Mafrolla 32 (tel 0884.707.030; 65–80), in the old town, with large, simple rooms, and a sun terrace overlooking the promontory where you can bring your own beer and take-out pizza and enjoy the sunset. With just thirteen rooms and many people coming back year after year you need to book well in advance (at Easter for August) and those wanting a stay of three days to a week will be given preference. Perhaps a more straightforward option in the old town is Seggio, Via Vesta 7 (tel 0884.708.123; 130–160), with vertiginous views down to its swimming pool and private rocky beach, while around 1.5km north of the castle along the shore, the good-value Albergo Vela Velo, Lungomare Europa 19 (tel 0884.701.462; 80–105), is a small, modern two-star. A little more upmarket is the Hotel Punta San Francesco at Via D. Francesco 2 (tel 0884.701.422; 105–130), with lovely views over the promontory and comfortable whitewashed rooms with terracotta tile floors.

There's a huge variety of places to eat within the narrow streets and tiny piazzas of the old town. Among the many choices are Osteria degli Archi, Via Ripe 2 (booking advisable; tel 0884.705199; closed Mon in winter), which specializes in seafood. Dragone, via Duomo 8 (closed Nov–March), located in a natural cave, is also good for fish. The strangely named Box 19, Via Santa Maria di Merino 13 (closed Mon & Nov), serves excellent seafood such as linguine all'astice (lobster). There are some cheap and cheerful pizzerias on the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II; and the terrace bar at Hotel Seggio (see above) is a good place to chill before dinner.

From June to September there are catamaran and hydrofoil connections to the Trémiti Islands (June, July & Sept 1 daily, Aug 3 daily; a 1hr journey; 13.43 single) from Vieste; tickets are available from a number of agencies around town, including Gargáno Viaggi at Piazza Roma 7 (daily 9am–12.30pm & 5–9pm; tel 0884.708.501, garganoviaggi@tiscalinet.it, www.tiscalinet.it), or from the Adriatica office (www.adriatica.it) in the harbour. Otherwise, foot-passenger ferries (motonave) run the rest of the year once a week; buy tickets from the agencies above or from the ticket office at the harbour (look for the "Vieste 1" sign).

Information by Rough Guides

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