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Half-way up the lake is PALLANZA, which along with the industrial quarters of Suna and Intra makes up the town of VERBANIA, whose name recalls Verbanum – the name used by the Romans for the whole, verbena-shored lake. Verbania's winter climate is the mildest on the lake, which enabled a retired Scottish soldier, Captain Neil McEachern, to create in the Thirties the most botanically prestigious garden of all the lakes, at the Villa Táranto. The grounds (April–Oct daily 8.30am–7.30pm; last admission 6.30pm; 7) contain 20,000 species of plant – including giant Amazonian lilies, lotus blossoms, Japanese maple, and Melia azederach, a sacred Indian tree – laid out with cool geometric accuracy around fountains and pools. A half-hour walk south of Villa Táranto, Pallanza's lakefront is lined with manicured flower beds and dapper gelaterie, bars and hotels, but on the hill behind there's a more down-to-earth quarter in which the souvenir shops are almost outnumbered by alimentari, fruit shops and pasticcerie. The tourist office is on Corso Zanitello 8 (May–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 3–6pm, Sun 9am–noon; Oct–April Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm &3–6pm, Sat 9am–12.30pm; tel & fax 0323.503249). From just opposite the entrance to the villa, the lake's only car ferry joins the east Piemonte coast with the western Lombardy shores at the town of Laveno. Pallanza also boasts the only youth hostel (tel 0323.501.648, fax 0323.507.877; March–Oct) on the lake, a signposted ten-minute uphill walk from Piazza Gramsci where the bus drops you. It's a friendly place and organizes activities in the area. It's set in an old villa that offers double rooms (15.50), 4–8-bed dorms (14) and larger 12-bed dorms (12.50), breakfast included. Information by Rough Guides |
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