Introduction to Ballina, Ireland

The busy town of BALLINA, clustered around two graceful bridges on the River Moy, makes a good place to stock up on provisions and information; the town is especially vibrant during the week-long street festival that takes place in mid-July. The elegant Victorian and Edwardian pub- and shopfronts testify to a long history of vigorous trading, and this tradition continues in the rebuilding and energetic business activity that's evident everywhere. Stock up on smoked salmon at Clarke's Salmon Smokery on O'Rahilly Street, which also displays an impressive range of fresh, whole fish in its windows.

The tourist office (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm; tel 096/70848) is located between the bridges on the side of the river away from town, and the entrance is guarded by a life-sized picture of Ballina's most famous daughter, former president Mary Robinson. You can stay and indulge in some real splendour, with a touch of Gothic-horror excess, at the Belleek Castle (tel 096/22400, www.belleekcastle.com; €160–200/£100–125): take Pearse Street eastward from the centre, and follow the signs; a left turn will bring you through an imposing stone gateway and to a long drive through dark forest to a Neo-Jacobean mansion in forbidding grey stone. The Bartra House Hotel (tel 096/22200; €90–110/£55–70), a cheerful and friendly place on Pearse Street, is a pleasant, cheaper option. The best of the many B&Bs are: Ashley House (tel 096/22799; €50–70/£30–40), half a mile out off the Crossmolina road near Belleek Castle, and, four miles out of town on Quay Road, Jordan's Red River Lodge (tel 096/22841, redriverlodge@eircom.net; €50–70/£30–40; April–Oct). For camping, try the well-equipped Belleek Caravan and Camping Park (tel 096/71533), a couple of miles north of town on the Killala road.

When eating, make sure you try the famous Moy salmon. Murphy Bros, a large, well-run pub on the right bank of the Moy, a little downriver from the tourist office, does good seafood platters in the bar and more sophisticated fish and seafood dishes in the upstairs restaurant. The Broken Jug – named after John Banville's play – a roomy pub at the top of O'Rahilly Street, offers bar food until 8pm and Indian food in the evening-time restaurant upstairs. For a drink, and perhaps a lunchtime sandwich or salad, make for Gaughans, a great old-fashioned pub on O'Rahilly St.

Information by Rough Guides

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