Truly outstanding, but not for ignorant philistines
Vij's surpasses its high reputation. Food and service are both stellar. What they're doing with the food is extremely sophisticated; it's not overdressed nonsense, like what's found at Bobby Flay's tourist joints. This is food for people who can tell when the cooking is Punjabi versus Bengali versus Goa-style, and who will recognize the adventure being served to them.
Detailed review:
Doors open at 5:30; we arrived at 5:15. The line was already huge; the last table was filled by the party four ahead of us. We were directed to the tiny lounge to put our name on the wait list and have a drink.
The lounge doesn't offer appetizers, but they thoughtfully brought around trays of munchies to keep the waiting diners from getting cranky. Simple but delicious.
We got our table at 6:45. To start, we ordered samosas and curry-stewed jackfruit. Both were delicious. The samosas were expertly made, the meat stuffing flavorful and lightly fluffy; the jackfruit was fascinating, a deeply layered flavor. Both had exactly the right amount of spicy heat.
For entrees, we got the shortribs (beef, in a cinnamon-and-curry red-wine braise, plus gently cooked kale), and the sablefish (marinated, quickly grilled, with asparagus and grilled zucchini, over a reduced-mango curry). The shortribs were as good as any I've had anywhere. The sablefish was perfectly cooked, moist, flaky, and flavorful.
And the mango sauce was one of the most spectacular things I've ever tasted, with deep layers of flavor. First a sweetly pungent aroma; on the tongue, a burst of spicy curry; then the sweet mango counterpoint sneaks in; then the curry spices present themselves, a chorus of individual voices; then everything combines in your mouth and the aroma returns. I almost cried: each bite was a tiny little orgasm of flavor. By the third bite, I was wishing for a bathtub of the stuff, so I could submerge myself in it.
For dessert, we opted for a small selection of spiced chocolates made by a local candy artisan. Chocolate + garam masala = my new favorite twist on dessert, and soon a subject for experimentation in my own kitchen.
What really made the night was the phenomenal service. Vikram Vij himself greeted guests at the door, and circulated on the floor, taking orders, supervising staff, monitoring both kitchen and lounge. Nothing missed his eye. Passing our table, he saw we had neglected the kale alongside the shortribs, and encouraged us, with charming pride, to try them. He also played busboy, refilling my companion's water glass from the carafe on the table. The regular wait staff was equally professional, present and available, but with a light, unoppressive touch. Truly a first-class operation.
When diners were finished, Vij made a point of saying goodbye. As we stood and gathered our coats, Vij bustled over and asked us how we enjoyed the meal. We were effusively complimentary, which he accepted with grace and humility.
Highly recommended for the right sort of foodie. If you're a rube, pass.