Andrew Edmunds, London

Get away from the brashness of swamped central Soho and enjoy superb contemporary European cuisine in this simply decorated restaurant. There is a romantic and disarming charm about the simple surroundings, featuring original 1970s woodchip wallpaper and wooden church pews. Come evening-time, candles set a mellow mood. The hand-written menu changes on a daily basis, producing dishes of a simple yet sophisticated nature, such as Confit of Duck, Gnocchi with bacon and sausage or a Courgette and Rocket Pesto cake with Tomato Salsa. The wine is undeniably the place's primary draw, and there are two extensive and courageous lists covering different price ranges. Puddings include Neal's Yard cheeses, beautifully offset with soft pears. Tables (especially those by the window) are in overwhelmingly popular demand with local office workers, so reservations are essential.