Quality Chop House, London

Here's the idea: take a top chef (Charles Fontaine, formerly of Le Caprice) add a restaurant which looks like a turn-of-the-century greasy-spoon, mix well, bake for four hours on a high heat, and leave to stand, and what results is the Quality Chop House. The missing link between working-class cafes and posh restaurants everywhere, the Quality Chop House has an endearingly dated feel, yet retains a smart, almost elegant presentation. The food is a similarly bizarre mix, with expensive seafood dishes such as oysters, lobster and caviar sharing menu space with more down-to-earth fare, such as Toulouse sausages, mash and onion gravy