Cambio de Tercio, London

This restaurant offers modern Spanish cuisine in warm, chic surroundings. There is a bullfighting theme here, which is reflected in the name of the place - Cambio de Tercio is the shift from one phase of the fight to another. It is an appropriate name given that most of the clientele seem to make this their shifting point between sobriety and intoxication in the bars of Chelsea. Dishes such as roasted skate wings with green rice risotto and roast suckling pig are a cut above the usual standard. Other, more exotic, dishes include the “infusion of red fruits with yogurt foam”. House wine is accompanied by a good selection of Spanish varieties.