Edrena Matrena, Moscow

Ukrainian restaurants are a bit of a rarity here in Moscow and so this one has a bit of a monopoly, but fortunately it hasn't driven the prices up. There's a sort of dining by season theme with the first floor painted with wintery vistas of snowdrifts while the second floor is a vision of summer. Coupled with the clay-walled interior, the overall effect is one of a cosy tavern where you can sample beetroot with garlic, herrings, pasties with eggs, cabbage with apples and salted cucumbers.