Szep Ilona Vendeglo, Budapest

Szep Ilona ("Beautiful Ilona") lends her name to a green, leafy region on the way up Budakeszi ut leading towards the hills. The name comes from a poem by Vorosmarty and this vendeglo or local bistro is a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike. In the warmer months, everyone passes the charming traditional vendeglo signs at the front and heads for the garden around the back. This is a delightful space, full of foliage. The interior is also welcoming. Tables and chairs are arranged at a discreet distance from each other so you don't have to listen to your neighbour's conversation and can concentrate on the business in question—food. The menu offers just what you would expect from a Hungarian restaurant - meat and plenty of it, nourishing, hearty soups and stews, a range of pickles and breaded and fried dishes for vegetarians, all rounded off with naughty-but-nice puddings. The goulash is divine and you get a half-litre pot of the potent stew for HUF800. Dishes like duck in red wine sauce or fogas—a Hungarian fresh-water fish in Orly style—cost around HUF1000 and some excellent Magyar Chardonnay wines will wash your meal down in style.