Rosenstein vendeglo, Budapest

Chef Tibor Rosenstein left his post at Kispipa in 1989, to open a fast-food bar near Keleti station. Eventually he opened this delightful sit-down restaurant with a family atmosphere in the vicinity. Rosenstein has turned a shabby apartment in a less than salubrious area into a sophisticated multi-level restaurant with signatures of the designer and craftsmen on plaques on one of the stucco walls. There are slick, black lacquered chairs, pretty overhead lights and fresh plants. In a place without much natural light, the atmosphere is somehow still bright and breezy. Exotic dishes sit side by side on the menu with more accessible home-style cooking. For starters try lobster bisque or a more modest cream of onion soup. The chicken stew, salmon and tagliatelle and crisp goose leg with red cabbage are all perfect for a weekend lunch. There are also plenty of non-kosher dishes and good desserts.