Central Kavezo, Budapest

First opening in 1887, the Central soon became the haunt of writers, poets and journalists. There are now even Internet facilities. A non-smoking balcony offers fresh air. The tables are square blocks of marble with rather severe wooden chairs. Try the 'Maria Thereza' coffee, a lethal blend of Cointreau, espresso and whipped cream. Or a flodni, a divine Jewish pastry with layers of apple, walnuts and poppy seeds. A variety of salads, seafood, chicken and pasta dishes are also available.