A real English \"local\" in the heart of Ipanema
By A Yahoo! Contributor, 12/3/04
Whilst staying in Rio for the Rio Oil and Gas convention earlier this year I was desperately searching for somewhere to watch the English Premier League football (soccer) match between Manchester United and Arsenal. The concierge at my hotel front desk was very helpful and assured me that there was only one place to watch English football in Rio, the Lord Jim pub in Ipanema. He handed me a flyer with a map showing how to get there and I and a couple of colleagues piled into a taxi on Avenida Atlantica.
Five minutes later we found ourselves in a quiet tree-lined street (Rua Paul Redfern, as I recall) one block back from Ipanema Beach. I looked out of the taxi window and imagine my surprise when I saw a genuine red London telephone kiosk beside the front door of a pub that looked for all the world as if it had been transported, lock, stock and barrel from the streets of Kensington. We paid the taxi driver (about 10 reais) and walked into the pub.
Once inside we were greeted by a very friendly, English speaking waitress who saw us to a table and handed us a menu. We ordered three pints of Guinness. Once I had acclimatised to the semi darkness inside I had a chance to look around. From the horse brasses on the traditional wooden beams, the brass drip trays on the bar, the hunting prints that adorned the walls and the landlord chatting to the regulars at sitting on the stools at the bar I could have been in a pub in any English vollage on a Sunday lunchtime.
The time came to order lunch and we sampled a number of different dishes. My colleagues chose Bangers and Mash (pork sausages, mashed potato and onion gravy) and Beef and Guinness Stew, while I went for the Full English Breakfast (two fried eggs, grilled tomato, pork sausage, toast, fries, baked beans and fried mushrooms). They were all delicous, a real taste of home.
We settled down to watch the game on the large screen and, as the place began to fill up with an interesting mixture of merchant seamen, tourists in club colours, curious Brazilians and oil platform workers the atmosphere became genuinely warm and friendly. This was helped greatly by our host, Julian (a Londoner who has lived in Rio for three years) who kept up a constant stream of information about must see spots in Rio and stories about his life there.
In all we spent about three hours at the Lord Jim and probably drank more Guinness than was good for us. We also returned that night and the transformation was remarkable. The place was packed to the rafters with a young, good looking crowd of well-heeled Cariocas grooving to sounds from the 60s to the present day.
To sum up, excellent, friendly service, good hearty British cuisine (with a few Brazilian dishes thrown in and a nice selection of curries), great beer and a real fun crowd.
Highly recommended.