Separates those who love food and those who think of it as fuel
By A Yahoo! Contributor, 8/9/06
It would appear from reading other reviews that Tetsuya's polarises its clients, at least those who post on this site.
I am puzzled by those who don't like it. Those who don't like it seem to be predominantly American. I don't know what they were expecting. Perhaps they would like bigger portions.
As far as I am concerned, it is a wonderful restaurant. It excites the taste buds, and there is a wonderful clarity and purity in the food.
The first time I had Tetsuya's tomato and tea sorbet, I felt that I was tasting tomato for the first time - it was the essence of tomato, shorn of the distraction of its form.
Every time I go, I am exhilirated by the matching of ingredients, by the play of textures, by the presentation, by the perfection of the sauces.
I have to answer several criticisms in other reviews. First, the suggestion that the ocean trout was "lacking in flavour", a view shared, apparently, by a table of four.
I have never known anyone to have this reaction. I have been many times with different people. I love the way that it is such a rich red, I love its moistness, and the way the knife slices through it, I love the delicate flavour.
Quail with bacon was also criticised. I do not remember having it, but I would be very surprised. The quail I have had has always been beautiful.
Tetsuya's would cost twice as much anywhere else in the world. It is one of the great restaurants of the world. Having been at least fifteen times, over many years (since its early days in Rozelle) I do not think that it is because those who criticise it experienced a bad day - it doesn't have bad days!
Cameron J.