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1. Visiting the Creeks (Calanques):
The coastline between Cap Croisette and Cap Canaille is like nothing else on earth.
Illustrious writers such as Simone de Beauvoir, Lamartine and Dumas have written about these creeks or Calanques in great detail, and of the feeling you get when you round a bend and see Morgiou or Sormiou ahead of you. If you only have one day to visit Marseille, forget everything else and head for the road that will lead you to these marvelous wonders of nature. To get to Sormiou, you can go by car but you will have to leave it in the car park at the fire barrier for the day, or take the bus from the rond point de Bonneveine (a 10-minute ride). The path winds on for about three kilometres. These creeks have been protected since 1975, so you must respect the environment and not stray from the path.
To get to Morgiou Creek, come back via the Sormiou Road as far as Traverse Colgate, go past Baumettes Prison and stop at another rustic fire barrier. A four kilometre walk will take you to a beach lined with beach huts that have been passed on from father to son for generations. This is a paradise by the sea although the peace is sometimes broken by people walking along the eastern edge to Sugiton Creek on the other side. Allow yourself time to wander along the sparkling hillsides high above the calm sea. At the tip of the last creek there is an area of flat stones that has become a favorite meeting place for local hikers. The Tourist Office at 4, La Canebière has a very informative free brochure.
After such a lovely day, once you're back in Marseille, treat yourself to an upscale dinner. Make a reservation at La Ferme . La Ferme serves delicious and innovative dishes such as the tourte de courge au foie gras and the brouillade à la crème d'oursin.
2. A Walk Around the Vieux-Port:
Ever since Marseille was founded, life here has revolved around the sea. The town became a gateway to the Orient, a place to which people throughout the Mediterranean came to trade goods and share cultures. The Vieux-Port at the end of the Canebière, represents this tradition perfectly. On the north bank is the oldest district, the Panier , which climbs up the Butte des Moulins. Place de Lenche is the heart of this typical old area with sloping streets called Accoules and old façades of bourgeois residences. Standing a little ways back is the Vieille Charite, a hospice built in the 17th century. In the 1960s the famous architect Le Corbusier transformed the building into a marvelous museum with a varied collection of ethnic art.
Return downhill via the north bank towards the port and the Hôtel de Ville. Here you will see Fort Saint Jean, built at the end of the 12th century and Fort Saint Nicolas, from which Louis XIV had canons fired at the rebellious town in the 17th century to make sure its citizens remained within his power. These two forts are important landmarks to navigators at sea.
Take the ferry to get to the south bank of the port. Here, overlooking the dry dock, stands the Abbaye Saint-Victor . It was built from the 5th century onwards on top of the remains of an ancient necropolis. After this religious visit, take a break at the Four des Navettes , the old bakery of a Benedictine convent, which is famous for its 'navettes,' cakes flavored with orange blossom. Go via the Corderie neighborhood and return to the famous Place aux Huilles behind the Theâtre de la Criee (which used to be the fish market). There are a lot of very good restaurants that serve fresh seafood dishes along with late night bars (including the legendary Bar de la Marine ), as well as bookshops and art galleries.
Wrap up your day with dinner at Les Trois-Forts . Here you will taste the various flavors of the Provence region, and you'll enjoy a magnificent view of the Vieux-Port.
Back to Les Ste Maries de la Mer Overview
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