Batdambang, Cambodia

BATTAMBANG is one of Cambodia's biggest cities, but it's a world apart from Phnom Penh's urban bustle, enjoying an unhurried pace and a reputation for friendliness. The city, however, is keen not to get left behind in the country's recent surge of development and modernization. French-colonial-era terraces on the riverside are rapidly filling with private English-language schools and mobile-phone shops. The busiest Battambang gets, however, is at the central market, Psar Nat, where gemstones from the town of Pailin, southwest of the city, are cut and traded. Don't expect to pick up a bargain unless you know what to look for – the better stones are shipped straight to Thailand.