Trinity, Newfoundland and Labrador

Situated about 70km from the Trans-Canada, just off Route 230, the narrow lanes of tiny TRINITY are edged by a delightful ensemble of white and pastel-painted clapboard houses, all set between a ring of hills and the deep and intricate Trinity Bight. The architectural high point is St Paul's Anglican Church of 1892, whose perfectly proportioned exterior is adorned by elaborate scrollwork. Inside, the graceful and dignified nave is divided into three, the side aisles entered through arches carved to resemble whale bones and the ceiling up above fashioned in the shape of an upturned boat. A series of memorial plaques tacked to the walls witnesses both the dedication of the islanders to the British imperial interest, with many a young man killed on a foreign battle field, and the dangers of the sea, drowning and shipwrecks being all too commonplace. Opposite the church, there's the modest but entertaining Trinity Historical Museum (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am–5.30pm; $4.50, including the forge and the interpretation centre), which crowds together an eccentric collection of bygones, such as an old shoemaker's kit, sealing gear, an early cooperage and a fire engine of 1811.

Trinity has several appealing B&Bs, foremost of which is the ACampbell House, in a good-looking Victorian building on High Street (Tel:709/464-3377 or 1-877/464-7700, Web: www.trinityvacations.com ; Price: $101-125; mid-May to mid-Oct). There are three guest double rooms here, all en-suite, and the breakfasts are first-class, featuring such local delicacies as partridgeberry crepes. A second good choice, also in an older property, is the Eriksen Premises B&B, West St (Tel:709/464-3698 or 1-877/464-3698, Web: www.trinityexperience.com ; Price: $81-100; May– Oct), which has seven en-suite guest rooms, mostly with sea views. The finest accommodation hereabouts is, however, in Port Rexton.

The best restaurant in town is the waterside ATwine Loft (Tel:709/464-3377), just off High Street near the Artisan Inn; seafood is the speciality here with main courses averaging $22. Another good bet is the Dock Marina Restaurant (Tel:709/464-2133), on the water's edge near the Parish Hall, where both the seafood and the meat are well prepared and they do a good line in traditional Newfoundland cuisine. Afterwards, you can stroll up to Rocky's Place for a drink.