San Francisco, El Salvador

North of San Miguel, Highway CA-7 runs 25km to SAN FRANCISCO GOTERA (usually called "Gotera"). It's the least exciting of the towns along the Ruta de la Paz, but is a pivotal transport point for the more interesting destinations beyond. There's no real reason to stay here, as onward bus connections are good, but if you do get stuck, the San Francisco, on Av Morazán at C 3 Pte (Tel:2654-0066; US$11-15), a block away from the bus stop, is the best hotel in town, with a good range of rooms including en-suite doubles with cable TV and a/c. Cocina de Chinchilla, on C los Almendros, is good for pastas (US$4), vegetarian dishes (US$3.50) and burgers, but Comedor Vanessa, Barrio la Soledad #1, is where everyone in the know goes, with full meals costing US$2.25. If you have some time to kill, check out the panoramic view from the Parque Concordia.

Buses stop just after the dusty and ugly main square. Bus #332A runs regularly north to Perquín from the same place, and pick-ups do the route from the northern end of Avenida Morazán between 5am and 5.30pm. Bus number #328 makes the trip to San Miguel (every 10min; 1hr). Cacaopera can be reached by #337 (hourly; 1hr).