Most travellers who find themselves in or around the provincial capital of Trat are heading either for Ko Chang and the outer islands, via the nearby port at Laem Ngop, or for Cambodia, via the border at Hat Lek, 91km southeast of town. But Trat itself has its own distinctive, if understated, old-Thailand charm and there are lots of welcoming guest houses to tempt you into staying longer.
Though there are no real sights in town, the historic neighbourhood down by Khlong Trat, where you'll find most of the guest houses and traveller-oriented restaurants, is full of old wooden shophouses and narrow, atmospheric sois. The covered market in the heart of town is another fun place to wander. Out-of-town attractions that make enjoyable focuses for a leisurely cycle ride include the ornate seventeenth-century Wat Buppharam, 2km west of Trat Department Store, and the nearby lake. Slightly further afield, in the mangrove forest near Dan Khao, 5.5km southeast of town, a boardwalk with informative English signs takes you through the swamp; after dark it's a good place to see twinkling fireflies too.