42nd Street Revisited
The Three Seasons in Palo Alto resides in an alley, in what used to be the Stankovich Brothers' Studio 54-like club during the 80's, at that time replete with a hot tub and a back room. Now, this old joint in the alleyway is the location of Three Seasons. The stained glass dome in the ceiling, brought in from a Pittsburgh courthouse (legend has it), adds a colonial look, along with the Spanish hacienda railings. Seven buddhas look down over the luxurious old wood bar, a relic of the 42nd street days. The bar, the black granite bar tables, and the tall tropical foliage of the piazza create walls and separate the first floor from the second floor and main dining room.
The wine list is outstanding by the glass, compared to other Palo Alto restaurants of a similar price point, and the food is well thought out. The duck spring rolls are consistently good, although the duck entree is similar to duck a l'orange from inexpensive chinese restaurants, replete with sugary sauce. The sea bass is wonderful, and the ahi/mango spring rolls are quite delicious. Beef fresh rolls are different, and quite good. Pho Xao is standard, and respectable, but the exciting thing about the PA Three Seasons, aside from the speakeasy/opium den foliage and darkness of the bar, which is contrasted with yellow light upstairs and in the main dining area, is the creativity of the menu. It has been a few years, so perhaps it is time for a change, but while here, why not try something different. The pea shoots are spectacular, lightly sauteed in garlic with a soy based spicy glaze. The fried tofu? They are finger sized chunks fried heavily in oil, and generally to be avoided. The spare ribs are okay, and similar to any sugared pork asian dish. The scallop skewers are well flavored with curry sauce, and substantial. The food is usually respectable, if not good, and popular standards such as the ahi rolls are sure to please.
It's crab season, and they have chili ginger crab on the menu currently.
The service is rather good, but it gets very busy here, and during peak hours, it's not fast. I enjoy Three Seasons PA for the ambiance, the martinis, the wine by the glass, and the pea shoots.
Also, the desserts are great. They are made in house, and even though dessert is not usually a meal element I visit, I think it should be mandatory here. The restaurant lists their pastry chefs by location, and, although I have only tried three of their desserts, they were all of high quality and not to be missed.
2.9 [Somewhere between very good and highly favored locally.]