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As a loyal Beach House diner since the mid 70's in both the Laguna Beach and Dana Point locations - and even the now closed Palm Desert location - I was dismayed and disappointed with the changes to the menu brought about by their new executive chef. While the food is certainly good, it is not the Beach House for me any more. Gone is their signature clam chowder which was so white it almost looked like puffy white clouds in your bowl. The new version is off white, over-seasoned and had (scallion?) greens floating in it. Scallion greens in clam chowder? Gone is the soft, hot, oh-so-sour sourdough bread with the delicious crust replaced with quite good but also ordinary sourdough rolls. Gone also is the crisp, cool, Beach House Salad replaced with a trendy collection of salad greens, goat cheese, and orange pieces which while good is nothing special and does not live up to its price.
In short, while the Beach House is still a good restaurant, and the view and atmosphere of the original location can overcome the new chef's experimentations, it is no longer a classic.
Christmas Eve 2008, I continued a tradition of over 20 years enjoying a family dinner at the Beach House. ALL of our party were unpleasantly distressed later in the evening as we got to enjoy the chef's creative use of spices over and over again until about 3 in the morning. (What IS the secret ingredient in the a jus? Jus is supposed to be just jus - the prime rib diners were not happy. Hello Tums?)
I'm afraid if the Beach House wants to continue on this disastrous voyage of exploration I will have to explore other restaurants. I am sure they will be successful but at their prices, how many fifty-somethings who can still afford $500 dinner parties can they afford to run off? The rain on Christmas Eve this year notwithstanding, the dining room was half empty. This has never happened in my 30 years dining there. In the last 20 years it has always been a problem to get in on Christmas Eve. Not this year. How much was weather, how much was economy, and really how much was stalwarts seeking a predictable dining experience elsewhere?
Much success with your new chef Beach House but next year I'll be at Five Crowns or Chart House or Villa Nova or any one of the others who are not ashamed to look ahead from the vantage point of tradition instead of throwing out the tried and true in search of - what, exactly?
Note that the ratings in 2005, 2006, and 2007 posted here on Yahoo are 5 stars. I travel all over the world and have easily recommended Beach House over 100 times and was right there with the 5 stars until this year which is, coincidentally, when they got their new chef. Five stars to 2 is not an accident, it is a murder!