Kiriko, Los Angeles

Tucked away in a non-descript corner of Little Osaka is what many describe as the most gifted and creative japanese chef on the west coast, and maybe even in all of the United States. Descended from generations of traditional Tokyo sushi chefs, with skills honed in Tokyo, Bali, Ecuador and Los Angeles, owner-chef Ken Namba is the real deal. Trained in the Edomae style, one can enjoy a variety of traditional sushi found nowhere else in the United States except at Yasuda in New York City. Ken only serves the most sublime toro, tai, buri, warasa, shimaji, amaebi, you name it, it's all there depending on the season. For the lucky few that are in the restaurant when some Japanese blue fin makes it to the US, the advantages of living in Japan are immediately understood. Ken also draws on his diverse classical training and international experience to provide a daily special menu that changes with the season and offerings of the marketplace. From Sawagani (live japanese river crabs) to dungeness crab sunomono salad to seasonal deep fried soft-shel crab with mushroom risotto, one begins to realize the depth of Ken's experience and creativity. For special customers, Ken also serves off-menu delicacies such as sea cucumbers lightly steamed in green tea or beef knuckle slowly simmered for days served with daikon radish cubes. I urge you all to experience this diamond at least once. As a frequent visitor to Kiriko and general end-to-end foodie, I can safely say that Kiriko is one of the handful of restaurants that I truly crave.