Torung Restaurant, Los Angeles

A trusty place of many years for lunch, dinner and late-night cheap eats; Torung has long won a local seal of approval. Despite its low prices, Torung is not a greasy-spoon fast food joint serving heaps of lackluster goop. The food here is tasty, zesty and authentic, and dished out in generous portions. Pad sew ewe, crab fried rice, chicken satay and papaya salad are some of the favorites. The atmosphere and the service are humble and amiable, free of any affectation. The clientele is motley, but consistently appreciative, with a lot of loyal regulars. Parking on Hollywood boulevard can be exasperating. Inquire at the gas station across the road for a rumored parking reserve for Torung customers in the back. Cash only. - Jamie Zum