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The resort and lumber village of WHITEFISH , seventeen miles north of Kalispell, has a lively vibe summer or winter. Hacked out of thick forests, it lies on the south shore of beautiful Whitefish Lake in the shade of the Big Mountain Ski Resort (lift tickets $44; tel 406/862-1900). The narrow roads round the lake and foothills deserve to be cycled – bikes can be rented from Glacier Cyclery, 336 E 2nd St (tel 406/862-6446) – and the surrounding mountains provide great outdoor action year-round. Big Mountain is the second biggest ski hill in the state, and is also open in summer for great lift-accessed hiking … more »

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