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It is painfully clear, since the events of August 2005, that there's a lot more to New Orleans than its image as a nonstop party town. And while this very special place has lost none of its power to bewitch, visiting New Orleans after the floods requires sensitivity and compassion. Even at the best of times this was a contradictory city, repeatedly striking you with the stark divisions between rich and poor (and, more explicitly, between white and black); years after Katrina, with the emotional and physical scars still running deep, those contradictions are writ larger than ever. While you can still party in the … more »

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