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Alberta's provincial capital, EDMONTON is among Canada's most northerly cities, and at times – particularly in the teeth of its bitter winters – it can seem a little too far north for comfort. Situated above the waters of the North Saskatchewan River, whose park-filled valley winds below the high-rises of downtown, the city tries hard with its festivals, parks, restaurants and urban-renewal projects. Yet, given the somewhat unfinished feel of its downtown, it's perhaps appropriate that the premier attraction for the vast majority of visitors is a shopping centre, the infamous … more »

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