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The capital of the Riviera and fifth largest city in France, NICE scarcely deserves its glittering reputation. Living off inflated property values and fat business accounts, its ruling class has hardly evolved from the eighteenth-century Russian and English aristocrats who first built their mansions here; today it's the rentiers and retired people of various nationalities whose dividends and pensions give the city its startlingly high ratio of per capita income to economic activity. Their votes ensured the monopoly of municipal power held for decades by the right-wing dynasty, whose corruption was … more »

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