Manila, Philippines

Filipinos love eating—to the extent that many a foreign visitor has remarked: Don't Filipinos ever stop eating? Indeed, a Filipino's daily food intake comprises five meals: breakfast, morning merienda, lunch, afternoon merienda and dinner. And take note that a merienda is often more than just a snack, particularly the afternoon version. It can consist of goto (Filipino congee) and tokwa't baboy (crispy pork and bean curd dressed in vinegar and soy sauce) or Chinese mami (noodles in soup) and siopao (steamed bun with meat filling). In that context, it is no wonder Manila can call itself the D & D (dining and drinking) capital of Southeast Asia. In Manila one is not faced with a shortage of choices; the problem lies in selecting from the rather bewildering diversity.

Ermita and Malate

If you are in Ermita and Malate, start your search at the junction of Padre Faura Street and M. Adriatico Street with Kashmir Restaurant which serves delectable Indian curries. From here to Nakpil Street and Remedios Circle , the entire length of M. Adriatico is lined with eateries. On the corner of Pedro Gil Street stands Robinson's Place , which is packed with dining and drinking possibilities, including the mall's own Food Court where you can feast inexpensively in cool and comfortable surroundings.

Nakpil Street, formerly a wealthy residential neighborhood, abounds with houses and apartment buildings that have been converted into bars and restaurants. More than just purveyors of food, these act as trend setters of style. Bravo! mixes fashion with a full menu of Italian dishes. Matina, a restaurant cum art gallery, introduces you to imaginative fusion cuisine. Sala offers contemporary European food in a very stylish setting. People's Palace features tasty Thai food and tasteful minimalist decor. Casa Armas draws in discriminating diners with its black paella and other Spanish specialties. Episode Cafe and a dozen other places lure the young sophisticates with a thematic decor and the added attraction of live music, shows or dancing.

Another string of chic eateries can be found at the crossing of Nakpil and Maria Orosa Street: Pepe & Pilar (Filipino with a modern twist), Garlic Rose (everything is seasoned with the medicinal bulb), Cafe Breton (coffee and crepes) and Batavia (novel varieties of coffee, tea and cakes).

Around Remedios Circle, which is just a couple of blocks south of Nakpil, the creations of Larry Cruz, arguably Manila's most successful restaurateur, predominate, each with a theme of its own. Cafe Adriatico is known for Spanish-based Filipino food, while the other Cafe Adriatico 1900 is known for refined ambiance. Cafe Havana is notorious for its Cuban cooking and a Hemingway-inspired cigar room, In The Mood frequented for ballroom dancing, Bistro Remedios for regional Filipino delicacies, and Larry's Bar as a hip hangout.

Guernicas (traditional Spanish food), The Red Crab (crabs and steaks), and the delightfully naughty Kink Cakes (the concoctions will make some people's eyes pop out) are also in the vicinity, as are The Library (karaoke and stand-up comedy), and Portico (continental decor).

Around the corner, on A. Mabini Street, you will find a different set of places altogether, most notably the Hobbit House (a throwback to the '60s, featuring live music) and the Republic of Malate. The latter encompasses the popular Good Earth Tea Room (contemporary Chinese cuisine).

Makati

Not to be outdone by Ermita and Malate, Makati's Ayala Center is replete with its own array of dining and drinking places. Glorietta alone contains countless bars and restaurants, including globally known establishments like T.G.I. Friday's, Hard Rock Cafe and Fashion Cafe. Cibo delights patrons with pizza and pasta a la nouvelle cuisine. Furusato Japanese Restaurant is a dependable recommendation for those who fancy sushi, sashimi or sukiyaki.

Around Greenbelt Park and inside Greenbelt Mall, you will find, among others, Italianni's (American-Italian pasta, pizza, salads, etc.), Schwarzwalder German Restaurant (schnitzel, pork knuckles and the like), and Sugi (one of Manila's best Japanese restaurants).

Along Pasay Road, also known as Antonio S. Arnaiz Avenue, many international restaurants can be found, while around Jupiter Street and Makati Avenue lies a whole enclave where Japanese restaurants compete with Korean restaurants like Kaya Korean Restaurant . Casa Armas has a branch here and so do various Filipino restaurants. There is also a conspicuous Thai presence, as well as a plethora of girlie bars where many foreigners come to roost. Do not forget Grassi's at the nearby Rockwell Center —in some people's estimate, it serves the best food in Manila. And if you do not fancy any of the above, well, there is always fish and chips!

Dinner with a view? Try Top of the Citi on Paseo de Roxas. Something light and stylish? Wasabi Bistro and Bar on Makati Avenue. And even if you are dining on a budget, you can still do it with some style at the Glorietta 4 Food Court or the Food Park at the Enterprise Center .

Ortigas Center

Here the activity revolves around the giant malls. Some pubs await you at Shangri-La Plaza Mall like the popular Watering Hole Brewery (totally new innovation serving beer brewed in-house). In contrast, the Prince of Wales at Robinson's Galleria is terribly British, complete with dartboard and framed portraits of the royals. Here is a sampling of eateries at SM Megamall : Tong Yang Hot Pot (pick any or all of the meat and seafood items on display, then cook it at your table), Dad's (extensive buffet from California maki to roast turkey), Almon Marina (roast chicken and sandwiches, excellent for a quick lunch) and the cheap and cheerful SM Megamall Food Court.

At El Pueblo & St. Francis Square , just behind SM Megamall, you will find the likes of Flavors and Spices, a fine dining restaurant featuring a good-value Thai buffet. And if you are looking for somewhere just to have a round of drinks, there are such places as Strumm's. On the other hand, you might want to indulge in some French haute cuisine, in which case you could sample the inventive culinary preparations at Le Souffle.

Nearby Greenhills Shopping Center is dotted with all kinds of Chinese eateries. Bistro Lorenzo (another Larry Cruz restaurant) and Ciudad Fernandina Restaurant, both leaning toward Spanish food, are two alternatives to the predominantly Chinese selection. Cafe Ysabel, in an exquisite old house, is in a class of its own.

Quezon City

As the biggest of Metro Manila's 12 cities and five municipalities, Quezon City merits a D & D guide of its own.

The D & D row on E. Rodriguez Jr. Avenue, also known as C-5, ranges widely in theme and food: Grilla (Polynesian-style setting and flavorful reworkings of Filipino dishes), Aqua Zoo (European nouvelle cuisine served in an interior simulating a giant aquarium) and Outback Steakhouse (Down Under ambience and steaks).

On Katipunan Avenue, which is just around the corner from C-5, Dencio's and Katips stand out as two contrasting varieties of beer gardens. Likewise Cravings, with its intimate continental mood and modernized Western food, contrasts markedly with Kublai, which serves an eat-all-you-can Mongolian buffet in a large industrial-like hall.

From this guide you should get an idea of the tremendous variety of D & D options that Manila offers. But wait till you get here—you will find this guide barely scratches the surface.

TOUR 1: MANILA THEN

Intramuros , the heart of Manila from 1571 to 1898, offers an excellent introduction to the history and culture of Manila. Start your tour early in the morning when it is fairly cool and quiet, and make the Intramuros Visitors Center your first stop. Here, obtain as much information as you can and get copies of all the free maps, leaflets and brochures you can lay your hands on. The Visitors Center is located at the entrance to Fort Santiago , the seat of Spanish colonial power. Having paid the admission fee, you may then proceed to explore this centuries-old citadel.

From the Visitors Center, head north toward the fort's imposing triumphal gate. Named Rajah Sulayman Gate after the last pre-Hispanic king of Manila, it stands directly on the foundation of Rajah Sulayman's palisade. To get to the Gate, cross a small moat planted with water lilies—a beautiful sight as it reflects the rays of the rising sun.

Fort Santiago is steeped in history and contains within its inner sanctum the ruins of military barracks which have been converted into an open-air theater— Dulaang Rajah Sulayman . Pause here for a moment and picture in your mind plays like Shakespeare's Macbeth and Brecht's Mother Courage staged in this setting. If you happen to be in town during the annual season of the Philippine Educational Theater Association (PETA), it is certainly worth coming back in the evening to watch one of the dramatic company's memorable productions.

Continuing northward from the theater, you will come to some steps that will take you up to Baluarte de Santa Barbara, an elevated fortification with a bombproof powder magazine. From here you can discern the mouth of the Pasig River as it spills into the Manila Bay . Also visible is Jones Bridge , which leads into Binondo and Chinatown . If it is open, go down into the dungeon: it is said that prisoners were incarcerated here to drown in water that seeped through the walls.

Located right beside Baluarte de Santa Barbara, the Rizal Shrine will give you a further taste of the injustices of colonial rule. Dr. Jose Rizal was held captive in the building by the Spanish authorities prior to his execution on the morning of 30 December 1896. Here the great hero wrote his immortal Mi Ultimo Adios (My Last Farewell). Rizal's deeply moving paean to his beloved country is engraved on a bronze plaque on a wall by the shrines entrance.

Just outside Fort Santiago , you will see the dome of the Manila Cathedral . Walk toward this Romanesque church, which rises majestically over the ruins of five predecessors destroyed by earthquakes and war. As you enter the peaceful nave, take special note of the beautiful stained glass windows. The rosette stonework came from the fifth previous church, which was bombed in World War II.

In front of the Cathedral lies Plaza de Roma, the scene of raucous bullfights until it was converted into a garden in 1797. Two structures flank the square--the ruins of the Ayuntamiento and an eight-story building housing the Intramuros Administration . The grandest building in the whole of Intramuros, the Ayuntamiento was destroyed during the 1945 Battle of Manila, but there are plans to reconstruct the stately hall in its original design.

Though based on traditional architectural forms, the Intramuros Administration building was erected more than 20 years ago. It is, however, noteworthy as it stands on the site of the Palacio del Gobernador (Palace of the Governor), demolished by an earthquake in 1863. You can read about the sites history from the marker in front of the building, or visit the offices and library of the Intramuros Administration for more information.

About two blocks south, you will come to a cluster of historic sites, including Casa Manila Museum , San Agustin Church and San Agustin Museum . Casa Manila is part of the Plaza San Luis Complex, along with the Teatrillo San Luis (a small theater used for Intramuros Evenings and other cultural shows), antique and curios attractions such as Barbara's Restaurant and Hotel Intramuros de Manila. San Agustin Church and Museum are in a courtyard of their own across the street. It will take you at least an hour to tour Casa Manila and another hour, maybe more, to cover San Agustin. These places are major destinations, particularly if you are interested in history, art and culture.

At this point you might want to stop for lunch at Barbara's or Ilustrado , which is further down Calle Real (Gen. Luna Street). But if you can bear those hunger pangs, try completing your tour of Intramuros first. The Silahis Arts and Artifacts center, situated in front of Ilustrado, merits a visit for its wide display of native arts and crafts. In the same building you can find books and magazines related to the Philippines at Tradewinds Books , as well as antique prints at Chang Rong Gallery .

Continue along Calle Real until you hit the walls of Intramuros. One last stop is recommended at this junction: Puerta Real Gardens and Acuario de Manila . Visit the latter to observe some fascinating marine life displays and the interior of another Intramuros fortification. In the gardens you can see Puerta Real—the royal gate reserved for the governors use—and go up a section of the massive ramparts.

From here it is just a three-minute walk to the Manila Hotel along Padre Burgos Street, which becomes Katigbak Drive after traversing Roxas Boulevard . Turn left at Parade Avenue and go past the Quirino Grandstand . Soon you will arrive at the corner of South Boulevard. There are many restaurants to choose from, many with refreshing views of Manila Bay, one of which is Harbor View .

The rest of the afternoon can be devoted to museums, starting with the Museo ng Maynila and Children's Museum (Museo Pambata) , both located next to restaurants. A stroll through Rizal Park , which encompasses the restaurants and museums, will take you to other points of interest such as the Rizal Monument , the Site of Rizal's Execution , The Chinese Garden, The Japanese Garden and the National Museum . A look at Juan Luna's award-winning painting Spoliarium at the National Museum (Old Congress Building) presents a good way to cap your tour.

TOUR 2: MANILA NOW

Start your tour at the Ayala Center in Makati City. If you are booked into one of the hotels in the vicinity, such as The Peninsula Manila , Makati Shangri-La , Hotel Inter Continental , Dusit Hotel Nikko and New World Renaissance Hotel , just amble down to the Center from the hotel. If you are lodged around Jupiter Street and Makati Avenue, you will probably need to take a taxi, though the distance can be covered by a brisk 15-minute trot. If you are staying on Roxas Boulevard or in the Ermita and Malate area, find out if there is an LRT (Light Rail Transit) station nearby. If so, take the line to EDSA station and then change to the northbound MRT (Metro Rail Transit), which will deposit you right at Ayala Center (MRT station: Ayala).

Inaugurated in the 1960s, the Ayala Center (formerly Makati Commercial Center) has spearheaded the ongoing modern development of Metro Manila. The most logical starting point of your tour is Glorietta , a showcase of the latest in style and fashion. Glorietta runs the whole gamut of commercial establishments, from local to foreign brands. Here is a sprinkling of names, some of which you will no doubt recognize: Warner Bros. Studio Store, Guess, Swatch , Tower Records , Regalong Pambahay , Gallery of Prints , and Pointe East Gallery . Rustan's Department Store rules the Ayala Avenue end of this sprawling mall. Remember to drop by the visitors' information counter beside the central atrium to obtain a free map and a special visitors' discount card.

For your mid-morning cup of coffee, drop in at Starbucks (next to the Makati Shangri-La) or one of its local competitors such as Figaro , located in the mall. For a dose of history, art and culture, head for the Ayala Museum . To get there, take the pedestrian overpass by The Landmark and cross to the other side of Makati Avenue. The museum is best known for its dioramas depicting the Philippines' historical and cultural evolution, but there are also changing exhibits in the lobby and two separate galleries. The museum shop is an excellent source of arts and crafts.

Right behind the museum lies a patch of soothing greenery— Greenbelt Park . You can enjoy a naturally wholesome lunch at The Source Cafe, around which the Organic Producers Market unfolds every Tuesday and Saturday. But if you prefer a regular lunch, there is a wide variety of eateries to choose from: Schwarzwalder German Restaurant, Flavours and Spices, Sugi , and The Cafe Mediterranean, to name but a few.

After lunch, you could browse through the shops at Greenbelt Mall. Drop in at National Bookstore if you wish to pick up some reading material, or at Crabtree & Evelyn for toiletries. Take the Paseo de Roxas exit of the mall, then walk up the street to the corner of Ayala Avenue, where you will see The Enterprise Center , a Techno Deco landmark of modern-day Manila. The Philippine Stock Exchange Plaza , another impressive example of contemporary architecture, is just around the corner on Ayala Avenue.

Continue eastward on Ayala Avenue (you will pass The Peninsula Manila, Makati Shangri-La and Ayala Center) until you come to Epifanio de los Santos Avenue (EDSA). Cross over to McKinley Road, a lovely thoroughfare shaded by the spreading branches of old acacia trees. Santuario de San Antonio , Forbes Park , the Manila Golf Club and Manila Polo Club line this private road. It is a bit of a walk, but if you go to the top of the street, you will find the American Cemetery —a memorial to the past—and Global City, a vision of the future.

From the Ayala Center, take the northbound MRT and get off at either Shaw or Ortigas station. This will deposit you at Makati's rising rival— Ortigas Center . Close to Shaw station stands Shangri-La Plaza Mall , where two popular department stores- Rustan's Tower and Crossings —await you, along with the malls own assortment of eating and entertainment outlets. Ripley's Believe or Not Museum is on the fifth level as is the William J. Shaw Theater . The Edsa Shangri-La , behind the mall, offers deluxe accommodations.

There are two other malls at Ortigas Center: SM Megamall and Robinsons Galleria . Expect more shops and eateries at both malls, though you might want to check out the SM Ice Skating Rink and Megatrade Hall & Conference Center at the former and Octagon Computer Superstore at the latter.

Conclude your tour with a visit to EDSA Shrine , birthplace of People Power, just outside Robinsons Galleria, before heading back into the mall for a movie and/or refreshments. Of course, you could always go for a heavy dose of art and culture at the nearby Meralco Theater , where ballets, classical concerts and musicals are staged regularly.