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Ever since the opening of the Suez Canal in the 1860s, the principal gateway to the Indian subcontinent has been MUMBAI (Bombay) , the city Aldous Huxley famously described as "the most appalling . . . of either hemisphere". Travellers tend to regard time spent here as a rite of passage to be survived rather than savoured. But as the powerhouse of Indian business, industry and trade, and the source of its most seductive media images, the Maharashtrian capital can be a compelling place to kill time. Whether or nor you find the experience enjoyable, however, will depend largely on how well you handle the … more »

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