The splendour of AGRA – capital of all India under the Moghuls – remains undiminished, from the massive fort to the magnificent Taj Mahal . Along with Delhi, 204km northwest, and Jaipur in Rajasthan, Agra is the third apex of the "Golden Triangle", India's most popular tourist itinerary. It fully merits that status; the Taj effortlessly transcends all the frippery and commercialism that surrounds it, and continues to have a fresh and immediate impact on all who see it. That said, Agra city itself can be an intense experience, even for seasoned India hands. Years of corruption and … more »

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