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GUILIN is one of China's worst tourist traps, entirely dependent on visitors for its income and flaunting an expensive service industry tailored to the well-heeled tour groups that are forever passing through. It is, however, a nice-looking city, with plenty of well-designed landscaping, shady avenues and rocky parkland to explore – not to mention the chance to embark on the famous Li River cruise downstream past the host of bizarrely shaped, legend-ridden outcrops which line the river banks. Budget travellers might flounder in Guilin's mercenary atmosphere, but in that case it's simple … more »

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