Chez L'Ami Jean, Paris

Hard to get a reservation in this venerable old establishment now that the new chef has been drawing in crowds of hip and not so hip locals. The place is buzzing with couples, families and groups well into the evening. Not the traditional French way where you make a reservation and you have the table all night--they turn these tables in the rather plain and small dining room. But the food is fabulous. We had the most delicious perfectly cooked veal for two, cut at the table and served with several sides, so many that our little table hardly had room for all the dishes. It is listed as a Basque restaurant, but the menu is half and half and all of it is exciting.