I enjoyed my stay in Epernay very much, everyone seems to have a very relaxed rythm of life and I met a lot of friendly people. There is a lovely market every saturday morning in the town center, which is fun to go to, even if you don't buy anything - just looking at what they offer is like going to a museum. The champagne houses are great! ...
My best advise is to first visit the office of torisum to get a map and all the latest information about the region. The office is located in Champagne Ave. I'm not a big champagne drinker but the Moet-Chandon was very informative and the tour gives enough information not to bore you. The cost of the tour was €8 or about $10.
Epernay is a lovely little ville, I would recommend visiting the champagne house of Jannison Barradon a small family run establishment that makes you very welcome. We have purchased champagne from there for the last 5 years- it is shipped to England, excellant service.
This is the greatest little town in the heart of Champagne. Probably the best little wine shop in France is just off the square to the NE side. A little old lady runs it for the last 50 years and her prices are always fair and selection of wine and champagne is awesome.
I usually stay at Les Berceaux, have lunch picnics in the countryside or Les Bosphere or the pizza place across from the railroad station.