National treasure?
You almost hope they never touch a thing at the Okura. It dates from an era when Japan was a mystery to the world and its exotic customs and difficult language made the city outside the hotel doors impenetrable. So the Okura set out to provide the comforts of home while offering some of the feeling of Japan. Its design is well noted. But the small things are what marvelously haven't changed -- the little origami crane on your bed, the quaint descriptions on the breakfast menu like "morning rolls", the nice yukatas, the almost military salutes of greeting every bellhop still offers. Tokyo's new Hyatts and Conrads outdo each other with glitzy style and are in many ways wonderful hotels, but you kinda hope there will always be an Okura. Although you kind of worry its clientele is increasingly little old Japanese ladies having tea.
Oh, and the water pressure is amazing. After a long trip, nice. Renovating this place is a dangerous thing -- a late 90s attempt was roundly criticized by frequent stayers, and work seems to have not progressed beyond one floor. The latest attempt to upgrade the rooms on the top two floors of the main building is a mixed success. I passed on the 20,000 yen supplement to "relax" with 20-minute massages...But the shower room--with, shockingly, a window out to the bedroom--is a winner. Makes a great new place to hang out.