Excelsior Inn, Eugene

Painstakingly in gold Louis XIV-style detail, down to the carved chiffoniers and pictures trimmed in gold leaf, the composer-themed rooms charmed our socks off. We felt specially honored to be in the Tchaikovsky room, where we were able to listen to all the sounds of Christmas on the Tchaikovsky CD (books about the composer were present, too) on which there was plenty of music from the Nutcracker. And one cannot neglect to mention: whirpool-jet tubs in the marble-floor bathroom! Very nice. Arriving in the dump part of town is a bit of a shock, as you are let off right behind a row of rundown apartments with no greenbelts to speak of. Also, you must call for a manager to come and let you in, as no one stays at the desk after 5. For the same reasons, don't expect to be tucked into bed with milk and cookies, or even to have anyone come rushing to help if you need room service, turn off alarms that keep you up all night, or the fire alarm goes off. Our bed was not made on the first night after seeing our halfway attempt at keeping it neat, and the second night it was done just halfway, with all the pillows stacked in the corner—on the floor! Wall-to-wall art on every (for sale), hardwood, and the most heavenly decor, lights, and warm, wintry smells of cedar and cinnamon are most welcoming upon entrance into the elegant lobby. There IS another major to come to this place. Chef M's salmon raviolini is to DIE for. My mouth has never been so happy. When I go to Heaven, this dish is at the top of my list for stuff I want to indulge in every day. In a wine-and-mascarpone sauce... too perfect. $8 Papa Haydn-type desserts are on the house if you order dinner at the restaurant, and breakfast-- anything you want-- is free with accommodation. The Italian waiter and young people that work the restaurant are personable and accommodating far beyond the call of duty, and even made us homemade pancakes from scratch before they were on the menu! Alex, at the desk, ordered me (at the request of my husband) the most exquisite arrangement of roses-- deep, red, velvety blooms with pine branches and cones... so lovely and unique. When the fire alarms and neighbors' alarms kept us up all night, we were given our third night free-- more than fair. I noticed, though, that on our subsequent two nights, none of the nice amenities that are included with payment for any one night (nuts, chocolate coins, even sparkling water bottles) were replaced. The University of Oregon is right down the street, as are several cafés and a bookstore. We walked to the park, visited U of O’s art exhibit and museum gift shop, and had dinner at an Indian restaurant nearby, which charged us quite reasonably. Mike, the manager, has a professional manner to would soothe the most savage beast (not moi, surely). He is both accommodating and easy to talk to; always very understanding. Overall, I recommend the Excelsior as a uniquely elegant experience; the staff and food especially (isn’t that what you really go for?) are five-star.